Common Name:Bearded Dragon
Latin name: Pogona vitticeps
Native to: Australia
Size: 6 - 24 inches
Life span: 5 - 15 years
General appearance: Medium sized lizard with a large triangular shaped bead, flattened body and a tail measuring half the length of the animal. Gray, brown or reddish brown color with small spiny scales covering the body with longer scales from the back of the head. When threatened a bearded dragon will puff out its throat resembling a spiky beard. There are many different designer phases of bearded dragons available that can produce different coloration
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: Hatchling bearded dragons can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium for a few months. Adult bearded dragons will need a 50-gallon aquarium or larger sized cage if more than one bearded dragon is housed. Branches and rocks are needed for climbing and basking. A screen top is needed for ventilation. Do not house two adult male bearded dragons together. You can also use a screened enclosure or custom built enclosure.
Temperature: Day: 80° - 85° F.
Night: 68° - 75° F
Basking: 95° - 105° F.
A heat lamp should be positioned over one end of the tank to produce the basking spot. Use thermometers or temperature gun to measure temperature.
Heat/Light: Incandescent bulbs, ceramic emitter, or heat panels can be used for the basking spot. Full spectrum lighting should be provided using one of the fluorescent bulbs made for reptiles that produce both UVA and UVB wavelengths. A mercury vapor bulb which provides heat and light may also be used. Twelve hours of daylight can be provided through the use of timers.
Substrate: Caribbean play sand is cheap, fairly easy to clean and creates a desert looking environment. However, use caution with hatchlings as some people feel it may cause impaction. Newspaper, Astroturf, paper towels, alfalfa pellets, and vitamin sand can also be used.
Environment: Desert habitat
Diet: Bearded dragons are omnivores. They need both animal and plant material in their diet. Crickets, locusts, cockroaches, mealworms, wax worms, silkworms, butter worms, red worms, earthworms, super worms with an occasional pinky will all be relished by your bearded dragon. You should use caution NOT to feed fireflys as they are toxic to Bearded Dragons. Vegetables that you can offer included greens (turnip, kale, romaine, dandelion, endive, escarole, mustard, and collard), green beans, squash, peas, sweet potato, chicory, watercress, red bell pepper, and cilantro. Fruits can be offered about 1-2 time a week (too much can cause diarrhea) such as blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, cantaloupe, mango, kiwi, and grapes. Commercially made food is also available for your bearded dragon. Fresh water should always be provided. Some bearded dragons like to be misted and lap up the water that way. Powdered vitamin/mineral supplement may be offered 1-2 times a week.
Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint then clean as needed. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your bearded dragon or any cage accessories
Common Name:Leopard Gecko
Latin name: Eublepharis macularius
Native to: Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India
Size: 8 to 9 inches
Life span: Up to 18 years.
General appearance: Leopard geckos are yellow background color with adults having brown spots. They have obvious ears and possess eyelids. They have no adhesive toe pads like other types of geckos, but do have claws on their toes.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: A 20-gallon long aquarium will be adequate for 3 - 4 leopard geckos (only 1 male per enclosure — they are territorial). Rocks and logs will provide climbing areas and hiding places. Each leopard gecko must have its own hiding place. A lid is not necessary for the leopard geckos, since they do not climb glass, but will help keep crickets from escaping.
Temperature: Daytime high should be 82°F on one end of tank to 90°F under a spot light (choose wattage appropriate for providing the correct temperature. Night temperature should be 70° - 72° F. A small part of the substrate should be heated to 92°F using an under tank heat pad.
Heat/Light: No special UV lighting is needed as leopard geckos are nocturnal. A spotlight with the appropriate wattage bulb should be used for maintaining daytime heat/light.
Substrate: Anything from newspaper to sand may be used, but sand produces the most natural setup. Do NOT use cedar.
Environment: Dry, arid type climate. However, the area under the hide box should be kept moist to aid shedding and simulate the leopard gecko's natural burrows. A shallow water dish should be available at all times.
Diet: Crickets, mealworms, wax worms for adult leopard geckos. Hatchlings and juveniles should be fed small, appropriately sized crickets only. Adult leopard geckos will also eat an occasional pinkie mouse. Crickets should be dusted with calcium/D3 powder and vitamin supplements at every feeding for hatchlings and juveniles, and every other feeding for adults. Avoid wild caught insects!
Maintenance: Keep substrate free of waste products. Water dish must be washed and refilled daily to prevent bacterial growth. Change substrate regularly.
Common Name:Chinese Water Dragon, Australian Water Dragon
Latin name: Physignathus cocincinus, P. lesueurii
Native to: Indo-Australia and Southeast Asia
Size: Adult male water dragons can reach up to three feet in length. Females are slightly smaller.
Life span: Water dragons have lived to more than 18 years in captivity
General appearance: The Chinese water dragon (P. cocincinus) is generally green with vertical slanted stripes that run across the body and a white or yellow belly. These water dragons also possess colorful throats that can range in color from a pale yellow to peach or even pink. One of the most distinctive features are the well developed nuchal crests. The spikes are generally larger in males than in females. Males also possess prominent mid-sagittal crests.
The Australian water dragon (P. lesueurii) has the same body shape as its Chinese cousin. It is mostly brown in color. The head is lighter in color with a bar extending past the eye. In females the head is slightly darker and lacks the contrast that males possess. Males also typically have a larger head and crest. The crest runs from the base of the head down to the end of the tail. The body also is marked with bands of light colored bands, giving and overall general banded look to the water dragon. The throat and belly of the males is red while these areas are generally white or cream in females.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: Young water dragons can start in a 10-gallon tank but will quickly outgrow this enclosure. Adult water dragons should be kept in an enclosure that is at least four feet by three feet. The larger the enclosure the better since too small of an enclosure can cause the water dragon to rub its snout until a bacterial infection occurs.
Temperature: Temperatures should be kept at 84° - 88° F during the day with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be kept at 75° - 80° F.
Heat/Light: Water dragons require UVA and UVB light. This can be provided with various available fluorescent bulbs commercially available. The ambient temperature can be maintained with basking bulbs, infrared bulbs or ceramic emitters. There are now active UV bulbs now available on the market that also proved UVA/UVB light as well as heat.
Substrate: A variety of substrates can be used for water dragons. Sterilized potting soil can make for a very nice naturalistic enclosure but can be messy. Newspaper, paper towels, and indoor-outdoor carpeting can also be used and are easier to maintain. Cedar and pine wood shavings should be avoided due to toxicity concerns.
Environment: As their name suggests, water dragons should have ready access to a pool of water for soaking and swimming. These lizards also require high humidity and the enclosure should be maintained at 60% - 80% relative humidity. This will often require regular misting of the enclosure. Planted non-toxic plants in the enclosure can also help maintain the humidity levels required.
Diet: Water dragons are omnivorous. They can be fed crickets, mealworms, super worms, earthworms, mice, comets (common feeder goldfish), and day-old chicks. In addition to this water dragons also require some greens and can be offered shredded romaine lettuce as well as other various greens such as mustard, dandelion and collard. Other vegetables such as yellow squash, sweet potato, parsnips, green beans and carrots can also be given. Some fruit such as strawberry, raspberry, blueberry banana, and various melons can also be provided.
Maintenance: The water in the enclosure should be changed daily unless a filtration system is used. If using filtration, a weekly water change should be performed. The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily and disinfected weekly. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting it is recommended to have at least two sets for ease of cleaning. This will allow you to simply swap the clean carpeting for the soiled so you may clean it. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure and carpeting before placing the water dragon back.
Common Name:Green Anole
Latin name: Anolis carolinensis
Native to: Southeastern United States from Florida to eastern Texas and north to Oklahoma and North Carolina. Green Anoles can also be found in the Bahamas, Cuba, and Mexico.
Size: Typically up to 9 inches, though some may reach as large as 12 inches.
Life span: If properly kept, green anoles can live 7 to 10 years though the average life span is only three to five years because many die due to improper care and neglect.
General appearance: The green anole is a small green lizard with a pointed nose, and a tail that is generally twice as long as its body. They change color to brown when cold or stressed. Both sexes have red throat fans called dewlaps though the male's is bigger and brighter. Green anoles have long skinny toes with ridges on bottom for gripping. Juveniles have a bluish-white stripe down their back. Females keep this stripe in adulthood, though males will lose this stripe.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: A pair of green anoles should be kept in an enclosure no smaller than 20 gallons. Taller enclosures are preferred with plants or other types of ornaments to allow the anoles space to climb. Males can not be housed together as they are territorial and will often fight over the limited amount of enclosure space. Males can be kept with one or more females and any number of females can be kept together. Obviously, larger enclosures are needed for larger groups of kept anoles. Because anoles have the ability to climb sheer surfaces, a secure top should always be used with the enclosures.
Temperature: Green anoles should be kept with ambient day temperatures of 75° to 80° F with basking temperatures of 85° to 90° F. Temperatures of 65° to 75° F are suitable at night.
Heat/Light: Green anoles require ultraviolet (UV) light which can be provided with fluorescent UVB bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs that can also provide heat for the basking spot. Basking temperatures can also be achieved using incandescent bulbs, infrared bulbs, or ceramic emitters if using fluorescent bulbs for UV light. Under the tank (UTH) heaters can be used to raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure if needed. Heat rocks, heat caves, and other similar items should never be used under any circumstance.
Substrate: Bark mulch, orchid bark, ground coconut fiber, and peat moss can all be used to help create a naturalistic enclosure. Other substrates such as newspaper, paper towels, or indoor/outdoor carpeting can also be used. If using naturalistic substrates be sure to clean it often to prevent mold and bacteria growth.
Environment: Green anoles come from a tropical to semi-tropical region and require a humidity level of 60% to 70%. To achieve this part of the screen top can be blocked off to help prevent evaporation. The enclosure should also be misted twice daily to help maintain humidity levels as well.
Diet: Green anoles are insectivorous. They will eat crickets, mealworms, wax worms, cockroaches, fruit flies and other small insects. All feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded prior to feeding. Offering a variety of different insects will offer the best diet for the anole since different insects have different nutritional values. Care should be used to not overfeed anoles and they should only be offered only as much food as they can eat in one sitting.
Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. Anoles generally do not drink from standing water which is why it is vitally important that the enclosure be misted daily. Anoles will drink from the water drops that form on the cage ornaments. An aquarium bubbler can also be used in the water dish to simulate moving water to encourage the anole to drink from the bowl.
Common Name:Green Iguana
Latin name: Iguana iguana
Native to: Central and South America. Imported iguanas are generally from Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.
Size: Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in length.
Life span: If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than 20 years in captivity.
Special Note: While many people consider the green iguana a beginners pet, nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized care and management that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It is because of this lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely. Iguana owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements that the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or amphibian pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko, bearded dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way to begin in the hobby!
General appearance: Iguanas are what most people think of when they think "lizard." They have five toes on each foot. They posses a fleshy flap of skin under the chin called a dewlap. All iguanas have spines that run the length of the back. Contrary to popular belief, not all iguanas are green. Most juveniles are bright green, but as they age and grow they can range in color from a dull green to brown or even orange with striped tails.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The enclosure should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the iguana, and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult iguana, this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide, and at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure, most small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate a separate room as their "iguana room." Some owners also allow their iguanas to "free range" throughout the house. If you allow your iguana to live in its own room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana will frequent free of small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.
Temperature: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be kept warm. Daytime temperatures should be 80° - 85° F with a basking spot of 90° - 95° F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to allow it to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F. All temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.
Heat/Light: Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is required for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the proper lighting your will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper lighting can be provided utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles as well as mercury vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well. Additional heat can be provided utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent basking bulbs. Hot rocks should never be used under any circumstance as they can severely burn your iguana.
Substrate: Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings. Because of this most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or powder types) are not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic ink, butcher's paper, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial grass all make excellent choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or artificial grass please be sure that there are no dangling strings that could tangle in your iguana's nails. It's also recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may replace the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current set to use for the next cleaning.
Environment: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a humidity level of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a day. Many people opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.
Diet: Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older literatures will suggest feeding animal protein or even cat food. While some wild iguanas may ingest the occasional insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant portion on their diet. Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will develop health problems and will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet will consist of about 40% to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but is not limited to green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots), 10% or less of fruits (including, but not limited to Figs (raw or dried), blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mango, melon (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon), papaya, banana, and/or apple), and less than 5% of other grains or commercial diets. Iguanas should never be rhubarb as it is toxic. Certain lettuces such as iceberg, romaine, and Boston butter lack sufficient nutrients and should only be fed occasionally. Acidic fruits (citrus, tomatoes, kiwi, pineapples, etc.) should also be only fed occasionally as well. Tofu can be occasionally offered as well for supplemental protein, though if too much is given it can lead to long term health issues. Wild plants and flowers are not recommended since they may be toxic to your iguana or may contain pesticides that could be toxic as well.
Maintenance: Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste products should be removed daily and the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly. A 5% bleach solution provides and excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the solution from the enclosure before placing the iguana back in. Fresh water should also be offered at all times. Always wash your hands after handling your iguana or any of your iguana's cage accessories.
Common Name:Tokay Gecko
Latin name: Gekko gekko
Native to: Northeastern India, Bangladesh, Burma, Thailand, Indochina, southern China, Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines, Sulu Archipelago and eastern Indoaustralasian archipelago. Tokay geckos have also been introduced into other areas including southern Florida.
Size: Adult tokay geckos average 10 to 14 inches in length. Hatchlings are usually four inches in length.
Life span: Tokay geckos will live 7 to 10 years.
General appearance: The tokay gecko is an aggressive gecko and has an attractive gray to blue body with orange to red spots and flecks. The whole body is covered with small angular scales with tubercular scales on the back of the gecko. The toes have large undivided adhesive pads which they can climb almost any surface. The male is distinguished from the female by an angular row of 10 to 24 pre-anal pores. Tokay geckos have voices that bark, grunt and trill.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: Tokay geckos can be kept singly in a 10 to 20-gallon aquarium. You can house them in groups, however it is inadvisable to keep males together as they will fight. You can keep up to six tokay geckos in a 55-gallon aquarium. When possible choose high tanks over long tanks. Screened enclosures are not a good choice because of the geckos' delicate foot structure.
Temperature: Tokay geckos should be kept in a relative cage temperature of 85° to 90° F during the day with a 15° F drop during the night.
Heat/Light: A heat lamp may be used. As Tokay geckos are nocturnal, ultra-violet lighting is not necessary but can be used for aesthetic purposes and plant maintenance. Under tank heaters are rarely used by this gecko. A photo period of 10 hours light and 14 hours darkness is adequate.
Substrate: Potting soil and sand mixture, orchid bark, coconut fiber or fir bark can all be used as substrate.
Environment: Tokay geckos are from the tropical rain forest, but the can be found at home within human habitations as well. Since they are a rain forest species a relative humidity should be around 70% to 90% and should not drop below 50%. The substrate listed above will help in keeping the humidity in the desired range. Strong plants such as croton and wax flower are recommended. The back wall of the terrarium can also be lined with bark. Split branches, cork tubes and grape wood branches can also be used.
Diet: Tokay geckos are not squeamish and will eat a wide variety of insects. Crickets should be a staple and will be relished. Wax worms, wax moths, super worms, locusts and even pinky mice will be eaten. Food should be offered every other day. Dusting of insects with a multipurpose reptile vitamin/mineral powder should be done at least every third feeding.
Maintenance: Spot cleaning of the terrarium should be done as needed. A complete breakdown of the terrarium and replacement of the substrate should be done every three to four months. Humidity can be maintained by daily misting once in the morning and once in the evening. Tokay geckos stress with handling and should be considered a "hands off" gecko. If captured they will bit strongly. As these bites can be quite painful, it is best to wear strong gloves when handling is necessary. As the vast majority of Tokay geckos are imported and very few are captive bred, wild caught animals may be loaded with parasites. It is recommended to have a veterinarian check for these parasites with a fecal flotation exam.